“I want to start a brand like [insert any trendy brand here] except sustainable”. It sounds simple enough, but once these startup fashion founder wannabes get to work, they usually start to feel like it just might be impossible. And, that’s because there is a ton of greenwashing going on these days, so when it’s time to make important decisions like what type of fibers to use, or where to make the garments, founders aren’t quite sure what to do. Because, here’s the thing: most brands that are greenwashing don’t even realize they are because of all the misinformation out there. But, don’t worry, me and my 15+ years working in factories, have answers for you. This article will give your sustainable fashion startup everything you need to make your clothes with the least negative impact possible.
HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
- What is Sustainability? Are You Accidentally Greenwashing?
- Start Doing This Right Now To Create A Sustainable Brand
- How to Choose Sustainable Materials Like an Industry Pro
- Fiber Deep Dive - What’s Really Sustainable?
- Natural Fibers (Cotton, Wool, Hemp, Linen)
- Semi-Synthetic Fibers (Rayon, Modal, Bamboo)
- Synthetic Fibers (Recycled Polyester, Biosynthetic Alternatives)
- Bonus Round
- Tricks to Instantly Become More Sustainable
- Additional Resources
DEFINE YOUR SUSTAINABILITY TERMS
Before you can become a sustainable brand, you need to define what a sustainable brand is and isn’t. And, this is where it gets interesting - you get to make your own rules. Yes, really.
That is because there are currently no legally regulated definitions for sustainable fashion terms (with one exception - I’ll explain in a minute). So, sustainable fashion literally means something different to everyone. This is probably why there is so much confusion around who is and isn't greenwashing.
While there is no technical definition for each of the commonly used buzzwords and terms, everyone more or less agrees on a few essential points that I have included below:
“SUSTAINABLE” / “SUSTAINABILITY”
This catch-all term refers to everything from earth-friendly farming practices to new types of recycling.
Being broad isn't a bad thing. The media popularized this blanket definition, which allows brands to quickly convey what they’re all about. You can think of “sustainability” as a time saver when explaining what your brand does.
However, because the term is so broad, it has been overused. “Sustainability” has become the fashion equivalent of the business term “synergy”- it sounds like you’re saying something important, but in reality, you're not really saying anything at all.
“EARTH-FRIENDLY”
Brands that use the term “earth-friendly” will generally go out of their way to choose lower-impact materials and manufacturing techniques.
Here are a few examples of those “earth-friendly” choices:
- Using deadstock fabric instead of making new textiles
- Choosing factories that recycle and or reuse their water
- Working with supply chain partners that use renewable energy sources like solar and wind
“SLOW FASHION”
As sustainable fashion became more popular, people realized that it wasn’t just crucial that brands produce in earth-friendly ways. It was also important that brands reduce overproduction (read, stop making so much stuff). Because, all that excessive crap ultimately ends up in landfills.
While “earth-friendly” fashion focuses on how things are made, slow fashion focuses on:
- Fewer fashion seasons - some fast fashion brands now drop new products every season, 365 days a year. That’s crazy!
- Choosing boat transportation over air transportation - which not only cuts down on the transportation resources but also the price (sea shipping can be as low as 1/10 the price of air)
- Using traditional low impact artisan techniques
“CONSCIOUS FASHION”
This is the least common term, but it’s my favorite. “Conscious” means that a brand thinks about each decision in not only its supply chain, but its entire business model. With “conscious fashion”, brands choose the option that is best for them.
I often say sustainability isn’t cut-and-dry. It’s something different to everyone (like the leather vs pleather debate). So, it’s important that brands explain their reasoning behind their decision-making, or why they arrived at the place they did.
In my opinion, as long as the choices are educated and informed, brands are on the right path.
“ORGANIC”
Remember when I said there was one exception to the legalities of sustainable terms? “Organic” is unique because it’s the only term with a legal definition.
There are a few different categories of “organic”:
- “Organic” - at least 95% of the fibers are organic
- “100% Organic” - 100% of the fibers are organic
- “Made with organic…” - at least 70% of the fibers are organic.
- “Certified GOTS organic” - at least 70% of the fibers are organic.
Kind of confusing, right?
“ETHICAL”
And the last term we have is “ethical.” It’s technically its own category and can be unrelated to sustainability. I have a separate post all about “ethical” fashion coming soon (I will add the link here once it's live).
WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO YOUR SUSTAINABLE FASHION STARTUP?
Here’s the thing - you will never reach a place where you are totally sustainable. There is always room for improvement and more work to be done. All of those “ world's most sustainable hoodie” claims are complete and total BS.
Now, it probably sounds overwhelming to hear that you will never be done trying to become a sustainable company. But that’s ok - I just need you to reframe your mindset around being a sustainable fashion startup - instead of looking at it as some finish line or award to be won, look at it like your business conscience that drives all of the decision making for your your sustainable clothing startup.
THE SECRET TO BEING SUSTAINABLE
“Can you help me start a sustainable fashion brand?” or “Can you help me source sustainable fabrics?”
I hate emails like these… I’m like umm, can I buy a vowel?
As a fashion industry professional that is trying to help you, I need more details as to what it is these founders are trying to accomplish. But often when I start asking more specific questions, they don’t have a clue as to what they want other than being able to tell magazine editors and enquiring customers that they are sustainable.
They want a magic answer - if you do this, you check the sustainability box, but it’s not that easy. Here's what you need to do instead…
CHOOSE ONE THING TO FOCUS ON
Just one. The mistake many sustainable fashion startups make is trying to to everything, and be perfect at everything all at once.
Choose the one thing that’s most important for your sustainable fashion startup to focus on. Is it decreasing your carbon footprint, or is it using non toxic dye? Literally pick one and make it YOUR specialty. Become an absolute expert on it. Know everything there is to know about it. And, make all your product and business decisions based on staying true to that one thing.
After you master that one thing for a few seasons, add one more thing, and become an expert in that. Then every year, become better and better. Because when you try to be everything to everyone all at once, you end up never being good enough.
The take away here is that the only “sustainable” or realistic way to become a sustainable brand is taking it one step at a time.
HOW TO CHOOSE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS
When it comes to materials, the most important thing to do is to think about the end use first.
The most sustainable product, made in the most earth-friendly ways, won’t matter if it doesn't perform well or isn't comfortable - people won’t wear it. It’ll just sit in a warehouse or a closet, and ultimately end up in a landfill.
To prevent this from happening, first decide the clothings end goal. Then, make all of your product development decisions with that in mind.
Simple, right?
For example, most people in the sustainable fashion startup world would agree that cotton is more sustainable than polyester. But a cotton bikini will weight 20 pounds and completely stretch out all fall off if you wear it in the water. Essentially a cotton bikini is unwearable garbage, so in this case the cotton is NOT more sustainable.
QUICK SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE WINS
Here are a few quick rules for choosing eco friendly textiles for your sustainable fashion startup. But, remember there are always exceptions:
CHOOSE NATURAL OVER SYNTHETIC FIBERS
When you can, always opt for natural materials like cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and silk. As a general rule, they are more sustainable than anything man-made.
WHEN CHOOSING SYNTHETIC, CHOOSE RECYCLED OR DEADSTOCK
Some designs require man-made materials, like the swimsuit I just mentioned. So, if you need to use synthetic fibers for your product, try to make them as earth-friendly as possible by opting for recycled fabrics and deadstock fabrics.
THINK ABOUT THE DYES AND CHEMICALS YOU CAN’T SEE
Sometimes the parts of the fabric we can’t see (like antimicrobial and waterproof finishes) are the most toxic. Make sure to do your research and learn what types of dyes and finishes are going into your product, then choose the most natural options.
CONSIDER CRADLE-TO-CRADLE TECHNIQUES
Cradle-to-cradle (also known as circular fashion) is a method of manufacturing that focuses on how the product returns back to the earth. This is easier said than done, but the cradle to cradle website has some great research and information to help you.
FIBER DEEP DIVE – TWO TRUTHS AND A LIE
Have you ever played the party game “Two Truths and a Lie”? Someone says two things about themselves that are true, and a third thing that is not. And, it’s the job of everyone else to guess which is the lie.
We’re going to play the same game, only with sustainable fibers. I’ll share two true statements and one false statement about each fiber. And, in the process you’ll learn all about the pros and cons of popular textile fibers as you play.
Here we go. See if you can guess the lie!
NATURAL FIBERS
COTTON
- It’s comfortable and breathable
- It’s thirsty (meaning it requires a lot of water to produce)
- Organic certification creates sustainable supply chains
WOOL
- It doesn’t have to be itchy
- It’s water-repellent and antimicrobial
- It’s great for sportswear
HEMP
- It requires a lot of red tape around manufacturing because it is illegal in many places
- It gets stronger when wet
- It’s a great natural swimsuit fiber
LINEN
- It’s good for formal wear
- It’s great for hot weather
- It’s made from plant stems
SEMI-SYNTHETICS
RAYON
- It’s similar to cotton
- It’s the same as viscose
- Viscose manufacturing leads to deforestation
MODAL
- It is a good alternative to silk
- It is more sustainable than viscose and rayon
- It wrinkles easily
TENCEL/LYOCELL/BAMBOO
- Bamboo is antimicrobial
- It’s a good alternative to cotton
- It’s expensive
SYNTHETIC
RECYCLED POLYESTER
- They shed microfibers
- They help clean up the ocean by using plastic waste
- They are just as strong as virgin polyester
BIOSYNTHETICS
- They use less chemicals than petroleum-based options
- They are biodegradable
- They are good options for swimwear and activewear
BONUS ROUND
Regenerated fibers are a good farming method that help bring carbon dioxide in the air, back down in the soil to not just prevent, but reverse global warming. Ture or false?
ANSWERS
NATURAL FIBERS
COTTON
Lie: #2
Now, I bet you thought that the answer was #3. But, that was a trick! It’s become pretty common knowledge, not just in the sustainable fashion community but also the public, that there is more organic cotton fabric being produced every year compared to the amount that is actually being grown. Though It is obvious that the organic certification system is broken, it does help identify transparency issues. Without the system, we would never know there was a problem.
The real lie is that cotton is thirsty. Cotton is actually not as thirsty as many people were led to believe (thanks to some influencers). There are a lot of low-impact farming methods like drip irrigation and rain-grown crops. If you want to learn more, you can check out this article.
WOOL
Lie: #3
It is true that wool does not have to be itchy. Through a chemical process called chlorination, we are able to remove the microscopic scales on wool that cause it to itch. It is also true that wool is water repellent and antimicrobial, thanks to lanolin that naturally coats the fibers on the animal. Sounds like all that would make for a great sportswear fabric right? Wrong.
Natural wool is not great for sportswear. But, processed wool is.
When wool is treated (chlorinated or even just dyed in different colors), the natural lanolin must be stripped from the fibers. That means that for a sports fabric to be antimicrobial (anti-smell) and water-resistant those properties must be added back in through chemical finishing processes. So, the NATURAL fiber properties are not being used.
HEMP
Lie: #3
The lie is hemp swimwear’s being a good choice. I have been seeing this lie a lot on sustainability forums. Some brands are claiming that hemp is the best swim material. While it is stronger when wet, which is a great property, it also absorbs a lot of water. Meaning that a bikini would get very, very heavy if actually used it to go swimming.
Some “swimwear” brands even say not to get them wet! Did you know that there are “fashion bikinis” now? Some brands are selling what looks like swimsuits, with a disclaimer that says – for poolside only. Meaning, they can’t get wet. So, be careful out there when buying a new swimsuit this year.
LINEN
Lie: #1
Thanks to Succession and quiet luxury, linen is having a moment. When you think linen, you probably think country club beach wear or what someone wears when they are getting ready to board a yacht. For that reason, many brands have been incorporating the fiber into more elevated styles.
But, this is a mistake. The lie is that linen is good for formal wear. Linen is a causal fiber because it is very wrinkly. When you are wearing something formal to an event, the last thing you want is for it to turn into a pile of wrinkles. Linen is best kept for casual wear.
SEMI-SYNTHETICS
RAYON
Lie: #3
The lie is that viscose causes deforestation (a lot of sustainable clothing startups get this wrong).
Viscose manufacturing does not always lead to deforestation. Sustainable wood sourcing avoids this. A lot of the big viscose suppliers like Birla and Lenzing have systems and certifications in place to make sure the wood that goes into making rayon is sustainably sourced.
MODAL
Lie: #2
The lie is that modal is superior. Maybe ten years ago Modal was more sustainable because of its semi-closed loop system. But the same viscose suppliers I just mentioned (Birla and Lenzing) have jerry-rigged their supply chains to create non-polluting viscose systems. Viscose processes have caught up!
BAMBOO
Lie: #1
The lie is that bamboo has natural antimicrobial properties. Now, let me be clear, natural bamboo is antimicrobial. However, natural bamboo is wood, not fabric. Chemical processing to turn that wood into a fabric fiber removes these properties. When you take bamboo, chemically reduce it to a liquid, and then turn that liquid into a fiber, just like wool, it loses all of its natural properties.
SYNTHETIC
RECYCLED POLYESTER
Lie: #1
Now, pay close attention because this is another “fact” that mainstream media got very wrong (thanks again, influencers). The lie is that all recycled polyester sheds microfibers. Not all recycled polyester fibers do this. There is actually a lab test that can be purchased that will tell you exactly how much micro fiber is being released from a fabric.
BIOSYNTHETIC ALTERNATIVES
Lie: #2
At first, these alternatives made of plants were marketed as biodegradable. But as time has gone on, we are starting to see how these fibers behave in the real world, rather than just in a lab. And the biodegradability claims have been dialed back accordingly. So, the lie is proven biodegradability. Remember, lab results can be VERY different from real-world results.
Some states are even making biodegradable marketing claims illegal because they are so hard to prove.
BONUS ROUND
Regenerated and regenerative fibers are different. I used the word regenerated, which means rayon, instead of the correct word regenerative. So, be careful when reading information about fibers, as it can be tricky.
~
How did you do with the game? Let me know if this changed the types of fibers you plan to use for your sustainable fashion startup brand!
A FEW WAYS TO INSTANTLY BECOME MORE SUSTAINABLE
The point of that little game was to show you that there is A LOT of misinformation out there regarding sustainable fashion. If you are still feeling confused about what direction to take, here are a few quick sustainability wins that any brand can implement right away:
REDUCE YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT WHERE YOU CAN
- Skip all the packaging - not only will it totally illeminate tons of paper waste, but it will decrease the weight of your packages and less weight means less fuel when shipping, it will save you money on shipping because less weight also means lower prices.
- Choose local options whenever possible - again, this will help decrease the impact shipping has on your brand's carbon footprint.
- Try deadstock fabric - not only is it often a more sustainable option, but it is also great for small brands because MOQs can be as low as 1 meter of fabric.
USE ZERO-WASTE PRACTICES
- Think about ways you can use every single scrap of fabric from your production.
- Could you partner with a kids toy company, and have them use the scraps as filling for stuffed animals?
- Could you make additional small products like hair scrunchies or fabric-covered notebooks?
THINK END-LIFE
What happens when the customer is done with your product?
- Do you provide a community option where customers can trade their current styles with other customers to freshen up their closets?
- Will you give discounts for customers sending back their used closed instead of throwing them away?
- Or could you include instructions on how to send old clothes to recycling facilities?
LAST THOUGHTS
I know that was a lot to think about. You probably started reading this with one idea about your sustainable fashion startup and now want to go in another direction. Please know that this is normal.
Sustainability is a never-ending journey. And if your brand isn’t changing or adapting all of the time, it will never truly be sustainable.
Please, tell me more about your sustainable fashion startup in the comments! I love meeting new brand founders!
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