Published: November 03, 2019 Updated: March 27, 2023 7 min read 16 Comments
There has been a lot of recent hype around deadstock fabric as a solution to garment production in the sustainable fashion world. But, what is it that you are really buying when you buy a dress made out of deadstock fabric. And, is it as eco-friendly as we have all been lead to believe?
So, what is deadstock? And, what does deadstock mean? Deadstock refers to old fabric that hasn’t been able to sell. Maybe there are small damages, maybe the company who purchased it ordered too much. Maybe they are scraps from factories cutting room floor that are being sewn together and made into something new, like Zero Waste Daniel.
Or, maybe there is a small little-known industry secret.
The thought process goes, that because this fabric is extra if it is not rescued by “eco” brands it will end up in a landfill. Therefore they are doing the world an environmental justice by making “waste” into fashion.
Not really. What most people don't know is that there is a difference between deadstock and available stock.
Available stock fabric is a fabric that a factory overproduces because they know that it will eventually sell. An example of stock fabrics that most factories and mills keep a ton of on hand is plain knit jersey fabric for t-shirts. They produce a lot because they know that they know there will always be a customer for t-shirts and the fabric, although it does not have a buyer now, will be purchased by someone very soon.
Dying, printing, knitting, and weaving, require huge, complex machines. Some ranges can take up entire city blocks, and take multiple people to operate. It takes a lot of manpower to turn off the machines, clean them, set them up for the next fabric, and then run a new fabric. It is cheaper for mills to produce extra of a fabric that they plan to sell at a discount than to shut the machines off after the order is fulfilled.
This means that in their basic costing, mills plan to sell x percent at full price and y percent at a discounted "deadstock" price. At no point are they calculating a percent going to the landfill. Remember mills are in the business of making money, not wasting it.
If the mills can't sell the fabric then they will pass it onto a jobber. What is a fabric jobber? A fabric jobber takes fabric from all over a country, or sometimes even the world, and re-sells it for a premium (higher than what you would pay a fabric mill directly for it).
Jobbers have existed since the industrial revolution when machines instead of people started making textiles. But, like everything else in fashion they are now being greenwashed.
The most famous of jobbers is probably Mood, based in NYC, and prominently featured on Project Runway, make it work people. I wouldn't call jobbers eco-friendly, they are just another cog in the fashion supply chain. Again, fashion is a business, that makes money. The last thing that anyone would want is to lose money by sending fabric to a landfill. It would sit in storage for years before that happened.
Available stock options are a great model for mills, it helps them to run efficiently. But, it is not an ethical model for a clothing brand that markets itself as eco-friendly – it’s taking advantage of consumers' lack of manufacturing knowledge.
By buying available stock fashion you are buying into the concept of overproduction. And remember not to let those greenwashers fool you. Most of the deadstock that is being sold is really just available, purposely over produced yardage.
A big part of factories' willingness to overproduce is growing local markets. Rest assured that this fabric overproduced was never intended to end up in a landfill, it most likely would end up making lower price clothing for a third world economy.
"Western markets simply don’t matter as much as they used to. India produces twice as much clothing for its own consumers as it does for us. Fifty-six percent of the clothing produced in China is for the Chinese market. Both of those numbers are only going to grow." - Michael Hobbes for The Huffington Post
If a brand is buying true deadstock. The kind that by definition is damaged in some way that makes the original brand that ordered it not want it, then you as a consumer are actually buying a lower quality product.
When the fabric gets rejected by a brand, it happens for a reason. Maybe that fabric is not passing strength testing so holes form. Or, maybe in the case of waterproof fabric, the finish is not performing so a product made with it won't protect you from the rain. Maybe it didn't pass chemical testing and has too much formaldehyde or another toxic chemical in it still. There are hundreds of reasons why a fabric could have been rejected. And mills do not have to disclose this at the time of purchase.
Deadstock has become a loophole for brands like Reformation which allows them to use non-eco-friendly fabrics like polyester. Reformation claims that using already produced polyester is better than it going to a landfill. But, as I already proved, it was never actually going to be wasted.
But, there is a second problem with the deadstock fabric being associated with the sustainability model. And, that is transparency.
In an article on Sourcing Journal, one of the only things that me and The Queen of Raw could agree on is that there is no real way of knowing if a fabric is a true deadstock, or a factory is just calling it that to sell it to eco-driven brands making them feel good about buying cheap polyester that was dyed with cancer-causingdyes and finishes.
If you don't have a subscription to Sourcing Journal, it's a great industry publication and if you sign up for an account they let you read a few articles a month free. Here is a little preview of some of the stuff we got into in the article I was featured in.
“We shouldn’t be burning textiles or garments or getting rid of them in any way but these markets are making it too easy to overproduce, have the benefits of economies of scale and then get rid of [these fabrics],” she explained.
If you are ok with this kind of environmental b.s. think about this - available and dead fabric is sold for a heavy discount so mills can get rid of it, fashion companies then mark up the price under the “eco” or "vintage" label so they are doubly inflating their margins, and you the consumer are paying twice as much for a product that is half the quality.
I literally walked through warehouse after warehouse of fabric, but, remember... there is a plan for all this
I don't want to leave you with all the negatives about deadstock fabric. There are always positives.
Deadstock is a great option for brands just starting out. Because the fabric is already made, there are no minimums. This makes it easy for designers that are small and self-funded to buy a few yards, and not have to invest capital into fabric they may not need.
but first, let me take a selfie - with all of this block printed deadstock fabric
Did you know that there are some US importers that actually sell THIS VERY FABRIC as "vintage"? One meter costs me about 300 rupees (less than $5), and I have seen it sold in NYC for over $500! Buyer beware! And, check this out if you want to learn more about fake vintage.
October 09, 2022
Love fabrscrap, Marissa!
October 09, 2022
What about designer that work with companies like Fabscarp? I’d think that would be as close to the real definition of deadstock-and most of what I’ve seen has been great quality.
July 11, 2022
Great article, very informative. Thanks, I am looking forward to more!
June 08, 2022
Great article, thank you.
November 09, 2021
I couldn’t agree more with you when you say it’s better not to buy the garment in the first place. Maybe if we all made that change to shop more mindfully, companies would see there’s less demand and therefore would produce less. But that’s just wishful thinking! Thanks for all the info on dead stock
July 15, 2021
Hi Nancy – definitely, you just need to hunt around. Deadstock fabric shopping is a lot like shopping vintage, you aren’t guaranteed to always find what you need at that moment, but when you see something you like you should grab it right away!
July 15, 2021
This is totally random, but would I be able to find the following anywhere: breathable ‘performance’ mesh fabric for hot weather- that’s mostly large scraps leftover (that would truly be going to a landfill)? Trying to make my kids lightweight outfits and shirts for the hot, muggy, humid weather we usually have. Does Athleta or Patagonia sell their not-too-tiny scraps? I’ve already tried googling, to no avail.
May 31, 2021
Hi Zahaa,
There is no such thing as a “sustainable” or “ethical” fabric. It all comes back to your branding and values.
May 31, 2021
Really interesting article, thank you… But now it does kind of put me in a predicament. I am planning on starting a conscious/ethical/sustainable brand and was thinking of ways to do that without charging and arm and a leg and without me having to take out a massive loan to do so… Dead stock seemed like one of the things I could use as a cheaper alternative. Its a pity really… What advice would you give to startups wanting to be more sustainable without breaking the bank by using 100% sustainable fabrics such as hemp, linen, organic cotton.. which cost so much, especially where I live where there are already not alot of options for those fabrics.
May 15, 2021
Great article and you make so many very valid points. I worked in a North American boutique factory for a while and we did Cut/Make/Trim for a couple of smaller brands, who advertised as “artisan”. They didn’t know many things about the industry and the waste was astronomical. Yields were sometimes as low as 50%. I ran into this often with “boutique” or “artisan” fashion brands. They just charged more for the clothing. So there is my caution about “artisan producers”.
April 03, 2021
Thank you for sharing Chelsia. How lucky you are to be able to find vintage fabrics! I wish I could have an entire wardrobe made of old textiles!
April 03, 2021
I design with true vintage “deadstock” fabric. Searching the internet to find out more about this fabric choice. Which really wasn’t a choice for me. A woman found my brick and mortar store, then invited me to see some fabric her mother-in-law left behind. I’ve been using this fabric for years. It is the most precious fabric I’ve sewn with. The oldest yardage is pre-World War II! I find that I’m less wasteful with the fabric simply because I know it is irreplaceable. Anything made with it must be made well and an extra bonus is that I design to fit multiple sizes and bodies. Not one size fits all, but one size fits many.
March 17, 2021
Hi, good read but I have one point I’m not in full agreement with: not all true deadstock fabric is cheaper & heavily discounted… at least not good vintage fabric. Just look at the prices on Etsy, some are crazy, just saw a nice cotton plaid twill from someone for $58 for 60" long & narrow! And I deal with a surplus warehouse in LA that wants $10yd for a chambray from India that he says is 30 or 40 yrs old!
August 09, 2017
That sounds great Najah. Please keep up updated on your findings. Too many brands create “mystery metrics” where they say x amount of water is saved, and throw out facts and figures, but never show the math as to how they calculated those figures. We would love to see how you come to your findings!
August 08, 2017
There is so much green washing out there, my friend, totally am with you on this! The more-than-your-average consumer just… Don’t do enough research. I’m developing metrics in my current venture coz I’m so passionate about it! The production of garments is something a lot of fashion brands don’t even consider!! Anyway, enough of my rant, thanks for the follow on IG (@wardrobetruths)
Love your work xo
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I have spent over a decade living and working in fashion factories, seeing firsthand how clothing is made.
And now, I want to share with you everything I know. To help you navigate supply chains, and launch your own conscious clothing brand.
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Aditya Mukherjee
March 08, 2023
Hey this was nice, especially the last image where you summarized everything with that diagram/chart.